December 7, 2009
Hola,
It's December 7th - my sister Janis's birthday and Pearl Harbor Day. Maybe one day Janis will have internet and she'll know I remembered her today, even though I'm unable to call or send an email. I'm just writing this for a future "send".
So - We're in Teacapan which is about 75 miles south of Mazatlán and at the southern edge of the Mexican state of Sinaloa. In fact, yesterday while we were out in the dinghy we were actually in Nayarit for a little while! The cow in the photos was a Nayarit cow! We're at our third camping spot in this location. But I must go back a bit and get all this in order.
When I last wrote we were at Huatabampito and that is where the first photos were taken. We were smack on the beach and figured that mostly we wouldn't be able to be so close to the sea. Well, we were wrong. We're almost always within a stone's throw of the "olas" or waves. I can hear them crashing as I write this. Nice to listen to at night especially.
We spent a few days doing nothing much at Huatabampito, which was really hard to find by the way, and then drove down to a place called Las Glorias another hundred or so miles down the road. The two Canadian couples that were camped next to us did the same and we enjoyed talking with them on several occasions at both locations. They were in small van type campers and each had rented a house for several months. One in Mazatlán and one in Melaque. We plan to catch up with them again one of these days.
The shelling on both beaches was great - different types of shells at each beach and again here, so I have quite a variety. The shelling gets worse the further south we travel because of the lessoning tidal action. I try not to collect too many but it's hard for me to leave a beautiful gift from the sea just lying there.
We passed through miles and miles of farming land. They grow all sorts of things down here. Huge avocado orchards, corn fields, things I don't recognize, as well as cattle and chickens. It's interesting that in many places the cattle are eating by the side of the road (even the super busy roads) with a caballero or two keeping them out of traffic. Of course, on less busy roads the cattle are sometimes being herded right down the road.....love it! I never seem to have my camera for those moments but maybe I'll wise up and keep it in the truck from now on.
We spent a week in Mazatlán in two different locations. The further north RV park was old and funky (mostly they are funky here even if they're new) but the piece of property was gorgeous. It's an area called Cerritos Beach and is just north of the marina. It used to be fairly undeveloped up there but now there are huge hotels and condos going up all around. Amazing. Of course, no one much is there but that's another issue. I'll get to that! We shopped at the central mercado which is so fun. The piggies didn't think so though. It's near the cathedral and we had lunch on the street in the pictures that day. We spent a couple days at a park more in town and went to the Aquario, aquarium. It was fun. They had a diver petting sharks and a bird show and a seal show....cute stuff.
It's only a few hours to get here to Teacapan from Mazatlán but it's another world. The town in small and there's farmland, ocean and a huge estuary. We were able to take our dinghy out yesterday for a long ride and saw lots of interesting birds in the mangroves and a ray and a dolphin. We moved from our more rustic little beach location (when the tide was up we were no more than ten feet from the water) this morning and came the three miles to the north to a fancier place. Here we have all the amenities which we're in need of after dry camping for a few days. And guess what? It's raining. For the third time in a week, it's raining! Everyone is shocked. It never rains here this time of year but it is now. And so we have bugs galore. It's not all perfect but mostly it's pretty OK.
Our next stop is San Blas which is my very first Mexican town experience place so I'm looking forward to seeing it again and for Mike to enjoy it as well. Only thing is, it's the bug capital of the universe so we may not stay long.
We pulled in here and met our German neighbors. They've been doing this for years as have our German neighbors we just left at the Playa Lupitas Beach we left this morning. We've met lots of Canadians that have been coming here for ten to twenty years and very few Americans. And there is plenty of discussion as to why there are fewer and fewer Americans coming to Mexico. In years past and even two years ago there were thirty eight RV caravans that came down here every year and this last year there were only two. It's really hurting Mexico. Many people feel that it's not only the American economy that is creating the lack of travelors from there. It's the media and all the hype about the druggies and the swine flu, etc. And those things just are not an issue here and never have been for all the folks we've talked with. And you'd be surprised about how the Europeans and Canadians fell about the "safeness" of America. They breath a sigh of relief when they make it down to the Mexican border unscathed! Mexico isn't for everyone but we and all the people we meet really like it a lot.
The people here really are wonderful. They all have a smile and a wave for us as we drive by. And they don't want anything from us. Sure, some are selling stuff, usually stuff we want like three watermelons for less than a dollar, but they are so good natured about being turned down if we already have watermelons or whatever. Anyway, we're fine so no worries - in fact come on down and enjoy the sun too......oops.....it's still raining. Oh well. And these bites do itch! Rachel, remember that bug bite stuff we bought in Tokyo? Well, I'm using it lots!
Just some notes, we've eaten fresh shrimp so many times and it's so good. It costs about 120 pesos for a kilo, which is cheap. They come around and sell them to us everywhere we go. The Tortilleria's sell hot tortillas for about 5 pesos for a half kilo. That's like 35 cents for over half a pound! We bought avocados for the equivalent of 15 cents each. In Hawaii they were about two bucks apiece and may times more than that. The RV parks run about 15 dollars with full hookups on the ocean. That's the daily rate - weekly or monthly is way less. We ate dinner out last night and it was twenty dollars out the door for two margaritas, the always present complimentary chips and salsa made fresh, Mike's whole fish in garlic and my, to die for, shrimp rolled with bacon. I swear it was lobster. Yum. I got my laundry done in Mazatlán - about two normal loads including sheets and towels. They pick up, they deliver, and they do it all the same day. 100 pesos or about 8 bucks. Sign me up!
There are speed bumps here called topes (pronounced "toe pays") and they are big! Also unmarked in many cases. You've got to really watch it. Any time you go through a town you want to have someone in front of you and you watch for them to go bump. There's also vibradores (smaller speed bumps in a series of about a dozen) that can give you a thrill as well. The signs along the road are many and fun to figure out. There was one the other day that translated meant "don't mistreat the signs". Hummmmm.
Okay - I'm going to go do something else for a while. Hope all is well in your world.
Adios,
Gayle (and Mike, of course, though I can barely get him to even read these)
Dear Readers, When I mention Rachel or Bryce I'm talking about my two grandchildren. My daughter, their mother, is Krysten. Joyce is my oldest and dearest friend, and we have traveled a lot together.
We know everyone here really well already since there are only four RV's currently. Two of them are guys alone - one of which is building a house nearby (for five years so far). The other is a young couple with a very small camper and a very large dog. He's a Great Dane named Archie and is a really nice guy. They're from Vancouver Island and we hope to see them again next summer when we're up their way. They know all the secret and wonderful spots to camp and we're all ears! They also have a boat and seem to live a very active and fun life though she is confined to a wheelchair. Very inspiring couple.
Hopefully tomorrow we will take the bus back down towards San Blas and go do the "jungle tour" and see the crocodiles. I've been before (several times - remember Kristin??) and it's really worth it. The spot where the pangas leave to take you up the swamp looks really updated and fancy. I'll bet it costs more for sure.
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